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LCF BA14 alumni selected for Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase

Luke Bullen, BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear (2014) Charlotte Knowles, BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear (2014) Charlotte Knowles, BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear (2014)

Recent LCF BA14 graduates, Charlotte Knowles and Luke Bullen, both BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology Womenswear, have been selected for the Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase.

The Graduate Showcase returns this September for its fourth year, announcing the ten best fashion design graduates from the UK, scouted from over 300 collections viewed in February and June’s graduate shows.

Fresh out of university, this is a wonderful opportunity for Charlotte and Luke, each having the chance to present a selection of three looks from their final collections at London Fashion Week. The Showcase allows press, buyer and industry members attending the event to meet the graduates and discover their creative vision first hand.

Charlotte and Luke’s success comes on top of three LCF MA alumnae being selected for Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones To Watch’.

  • Image credits – Right & Left: Roger Dean – Centre: Photography, James Rees; Direction, Rob Phillips.

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Drunken Painter Decapitates Mannequin Lover at Champagne Party

Salvador Dalí holding an artist’s lay figure (the chauffeur in the Taxi pluvieux), International Exhibition of Surrealism, Paris, 1938

A photo of Salvador Dalí by Denise Bellon. © Les Films de l’Équinoxe – Fonds Photographique Denise Bellon and Salvador Dalí, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, DACS, 2014.

The dark tale of Expressionist Oskar Kokoschka and his stuffed girlfriend is just one of the stories explored by our second-year Fashion History and Theory students, in response to the Fitzwilliam Museum’s forthcoming exhibition.

Jane Munro, curator of Silent Partners: Artist and Mannequin from Function to Fetish, asked our students to respond to the exhibition, which explores the evolution of the artist’s mannequin. Through short videos, they looked at the transformation of the mannequin from inconspicuous studio tool to fetishised object.

Student Angelina Todd focused on the shocking story of Viennese artist Oskar Kokoschka. Kokoschka was devastated when his lover Alma Mahler aborted their baby, and he enlisted with the Austrian army to fight in World War One. When he returned home severely wounded, he found Mahler had married a former fling – Bauhaus school founder, Walter Gropius.

A waltz with a polar bear
In an unconventional attempt to rid himself of his passion for Mahler, Kokoschka ordered dollmaker Hermine Moos to make an exact, life-size replica of his ex-girlfriend. He wrote: “Yesterday I sent a life-size drawing of my beloved and I ask you to copy this most carefully [...] Pay special attention to the dimensions of the head and neck, to the ribcage, the rump and the limbs.”

Träumende by Umbo © Phyllis Umbehr / Galerie Kicken Berlin / DACS 2014

Träumende by Umbo © Phyllis Umbehr / Galerie Kicken Berlin / DACS 2014

It took Moos six months to fulfil this order. While waiting, Kokoschka took up with his serving maid, who carved his initials into her breast as a sign of commitment. When the mannequin finally arrived, Kokoschka was horrified to find that, far from life-like, it had furry limbs.

He wrote to Moos in disgust, saying: “The outer shell is a polar-bear pelt, suitable for a shaggy imitation bedside rug rather than the soft and pliable skin of a woman […] Even attempting to pull on one stocking would be like asking a French dancing-master to waltz with a polar bear.”

Beheaded in the garden
Kokoschka came to terms with the mannequin’s hirsute appearance, painting and sketching the doll as he once drawn Mahler. Rumours emerged about his trips to the opera with the mannequin, their long carriage rides together and their private rendezvous.

Eventually, Kokoschka was convinced that his custom-made muse had cured him of his passion for Mahler. He threw a big champagne party with chamber music, destined to be the mannequin’s last. Kokoschka wrote: “When dawn broke – I was quite drunk, as was everyone else – I beheaded it out in the garden and broke a bottle of red wine over its head.”

Other subjects explored by our students include France’s consumer revolution and the story of mannequin maker Pierre Imans. The exhibition, which features life-size mannequins, dolls and over 180 remarkable artworks from across the world, runs at the Fitzwilliam Museum from 14 October 2014 until 25 January 2015.

More information:
BA Fashion Communication: Fashion History and Theory
The Fitzwilliam Museum’s Silent Partners exhibition

The post Drunken Painter Decapitates Mannequin Lover at Champagne Party appeared first on Central Saint Martins: News.

LCC Alumni in the 100 Archive

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A Place Is A Space We Give Meaning, Paul Bailey, 2011.

The 100 Archive is a community centred initiative to document and record the past and future of visual communication design in Ireland. It is a valuable resource which acts as a simple and transparent record of the professional activity, working practices, career paths, professional associates and collaborators of Irish designers.

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A Place Is A Space We Give Meaning, Paul Bailey, 2011.

The Archive houses an impressive amount of work from LCC postgraduate alumni, including three projects by our very own MA Graphic Design Course Leader Paul Bailey as well as work from Wayne Daly, Stephen McCarthy, Brian Heffernan, Niall O’Shea and Mark Shiels.

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# Magazine, Paul Bailey, 2013.

 

Brian Heffernan, now a senior a designer at design studio Aad in Dublin, talks us through his journey from LCC to 100 Archives:

“I had been a practicing graphic designer for nearly ten years when I returned to full-time education at LCC. My year on the Contemporary Typographic Media MA proved beneficial in ways I could not have foreseen.The course facilitated the development of new criteria by which work, both mine and others, can be assessed and this in turn has enabled me to identify the potential of my practice.

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Cork Midsummer Festival Program, Brian Heffernan, 2013.

“It’s a real honour to have my work included in the 100 Archive. As a practicing designer, I find being part of the pier group identified hugely beneficial. In this regard the archive is less about Irish identity and more about being part of something that recognises good graphic design, and that benefits everyone.

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Cork Midsummer Festival Program, Brian Heffernan, 2013.

“I think the archive provides a much needed focal point for Irish graphic design. Not only does it contextualise individual projects within a wider body of work, it contextualises Irish graphic design internationally. Having little by the way of legacy, the archive documents the path Irish graphic design has taken, and in doing so, shines a light on the road ahead.”

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DCU Student Support & Development, Brian Heffernan.

Read more about MA Graphic Design

Read more about Paul Bailey

The post LCC Alumni in the 100 Archive appeared first on London College of Communication Blog.

Gyo Yuni Kimchoe Scoops Fashion Scout’s Merit Award

© Gyo Kim

© Gyo Kim

Gyo Kim, who has is half of the award-winning Gyo Yuni Kimchoe label, has just graduated from the womenswear pathway of BA Fashion. His partner Yuni Choe makes up the other half of the label.

Having been named Fashion Scout’s Merit Award winner for the spring/summer 2015 season, Gyo Yuni Kimchoe will showcase their work at London Fashion Week in September. Their on-schedule catwalk show will be fully sponsored.

Speaking to Vogue, the duo said: “We are so honoured to be selected as the winner. The Merit Award is the best opportunity for new designers to show their vision and creativity.”

© Gyo Kim © Gyo Kim © Gyo Kim © Gyo Kim

‘An exciting approach’

Originally from Korean, Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe first met in New York. They then moved to London in 2011 to continue their studies. The couple’s concern about environmental problems, social issues and animal cruelty has led them to follow a philosophy of respecting life and nature.

Phoebe English, who was on this year’s judging panel, noted their work to be “very original with an exciting approach, you can tell they really enjoyed making their collection.”

Gyo Yuni Kimchoe’s eco-friendly, quirky and unexpected designs can be seen on schedule at the Freemason’s Hall in Covent Garden in September.

© Gyo Kim © Gyo Kim © Gyo Kim © Gyo Kim
More information:
BA Fashion
Gyo Yuni Kimchoe
Fashion Scout

The post Gyo Yuni Kimchoe Scoops Fashion Scout’s Merit Award appeared first on Central Saint Martins: News.

LCC graduate photographer Max Colson awarded £15,000 grant from Leverhulme Trust

Max Colson 04

From ‘Hide and Seek: The Dubious Nature of Plant Life in High Security Spaces’

Recent MA Photojournalism and Documentary Photography (Online) graduate Max Colson has been awarded a Leverhulme artist-in-residency grant of £15,000 to work with the UCL Urban Laboratory.

Max will work at UCL with the Laboratory’s Director, Dr Ben Campkin, in a residency titled ‘Hide and Seek: The Dubious Nature of High Security Spaces’.

The residency will develop Max’s final LCC MA project, extending the photographic investigations of his photojournalist alter ego, the paranoid Adam Walker-Smith, into the UK’s hidden infrastructure of security design and control.

The project aims to heighten viewers’ awareness of the way that security design, surveillance and paranoia interact within the urban environment, also using humour to highlight the limits of photography as documentary evidence.

Natural Surveillance

From ‘Hide and Seek: The Dubious Nature of Plant Life in High Security Spaces’

We caught up with Max to find out more:

How did you become interested in the area of surveillance and security design?

I originally became interested in exploring how surveillance and security apparatus can be hidden within everyday public space. Delving into this area on my MA, I then became fascinated with highlighting the logistical and psychological difficulties of photographing ‘hidden’ security apparatus when one cannot easily tell where and what it is.

What do we need to know about your photojournalist alter ego Adam Walker-Smith?

Having discovered the landscape design programme ‘Crime Prevention Through Environmental Design’ (‘CPTED’), Walker-Smith realised that high security public spaces in London, which present themselves as being free and open, actually covertly guide behaviour through security design and monitor human activities through extensive surveillance infrastructure. The reason these things are not often observed is because they are carefully hidden and softened by the strategic deployment of vegetation.

This illuminating finding led to what could only be described as Walker-Smith’s intense paranoia as to the ‘innocence’ of all plant life in these spaces. His resulting photographs dramatically expose what he sees as the ‘suspect’ plants of securitised urban spaces (these plants are so-called for posing as ‘innocent’ decoration whilst actually being hidden parts of the security apparatus).

What does receiving this grant mean for you?

It gives me the financial freedom to focus on developing this particular project for a whole year, in collaboration with cutting edge researchers from UCL and other experts in the field of security design, which will culminate in an ambitious and immersive exhibition in Canary Wharf.

Also, as any artist will tell you, doing personal projects is an often solitary activity; when organisations support your projects like this it’s pretty incredible.

What direction do you hope to take your work in during your UCL residency, and beyond?

I’d like to develop Adam Walker-Smith’s investigation into the nature of hidden security design and present it as an immersive mixed media exhibition at Canary Wharf that makes people re-evaluate the public space that they use on a daily basis.

Photographic prints on a wall will be one element for sure but, in collaboration with built environment academics at UCL, I would like to create opportunities for the audience to engage with the project using a combination of interactive and audio elements; this will (I hope) bring the project, its exhibition and my photographic practice to the next level.

Tell us something you’ve discovered during Hide and Seek that surprised you.

Plants are incredibly versatile.

What most excites you most about the prospect of working within the UCL Urban Laboratory?

It’s a home to leading researchers engaged in the planning and design of the built environment; my work feeds on the research and critical ideas of these professionals, so it’s a fantastic opportunity to develop my work by being in such close proximity.

Which photographers or photojournalists working today do you most admire?

There are honestly too many to mention but I particularly enjoy the work of artists who playfully critique the nature of photographic documentation and/or its prevalence in the digital age, e.g. Joan Fontcuberta, Walid Raad, Mishka Henner, Taryn Simon, Thomas van Houtryve and Michael Wolf etc etc.

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Max’s residency will take place across the 2014-5 academic year.

Read about MA Photojournalism and Documentary Photography (Online)

Read Max Colson’s LCC alumni profile

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