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Jean Paul Gaultier visits London College of Fashion

Jean Paul Gaultier visits the Fashion Space Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier visits the Fashion Space Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier visits the Fashion Space Gallery

Jean Paul Gaultier made a guest appearance at LCF last week, just before the opening of an exhibition of the iconic designer’s graphic works.

The designer had a look around the exhibition, reflecting on the designs he had created for invitations and ad campaigns over the past  thirty years.

Gaultier added his own flourish to the exhibition by signing the Fashion Space Gallery‘s wall with a message for LCF and its students. A fitting addition to an exhibition which showcases decades of the designer’s signature vision!

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London celebrates John Paul Gaultier

 jean paul gaultier

This spring, London welcomes the arrival of two exhibitions celebrating French couturier John Paul Gaultier, The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier – From Sidewalk to Catwalk at the Barbican is the first major exhibition of Gaultier’s work, while London College of Fashion’s Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest is dedicated to the avant–gardist’s campaign designs. Together, these two exhibitions provide a rich overview of a designer renowned for his passion, skill, mass appeal and humanism.

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The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From Sidewalk to Catwalk pays homage to the diversity at the heart of Gaultier’s work, making its temporary home of the Barbican Art Gallery is a suitably progressive venue. The exhibition started life at the Montreal Museum of Fine, whose curator Nathalie Bondil says of the show: “It’s not about fashion but social vision”.

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Structured thematically, the exhibition takes the visitor on a journey through the mind of this extraordinary icon; from the aquatic odyssey of Breton-stripe inspired pieces, to the monochrome aesthetics of his bondage collections and the intricate craft and feminine beauty of the boudoir. Areas of the exhibition dedicated to denim, tartan, corsetry and pink satins, illustrates Gaultier’s tendency to initiate and rejuvenate trends rather than follow them. The themes of his work are returned to again and again by emerging designers and students today – from lingerie as clothing to androgynous style and streetwear.

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In a Q & A at the Barbican, Gaultier said: ”It is more inspiring to look at people not in fashion, who are young and free. They have nothing to lose. Later, they have a code and it is boring’. This belief is made evident in the Muses room of the exhibition, which features costumes worn by the likes of Beth Ditto, Kylie Minogue and Dita von Teese.

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Gaultier was born in a suburb of Paris in the 60s and without any formal education established himself in the formidable couture industry of Paris, where he trained with the likes of Pierre Cardin. However, the designer cites London as a major source of inspiration, having an innate understanding and appreciation of British subcultures such as punk. Of the exhibition’s arrival in London and the huge body of work inspired by the city, Gaultier said: “I am showing it back to you like an homage”.

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In tribute to this retrospective, crammed full of exquisitely crafted and iconic garments, London College of Fashion’s Fashion Space Gallery presents Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest, featuring original invitation and campaign designs from the Gaultier Archive, spanning the designer’s forty year career.

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Curator of International Exhibitions at LCF Alison Moloney says of the exhibition: “We thought it was a nice idea to tell the story of his collections through the invitations, and show how his collections have developed over the years”. Gaultier has always taken great care and consideration in the creation of invites and campaigns, and been keen to formulate a rounded experience of the Gaultier brand and collection. It was also through his ad campaigns, in the 80s and 90s, that the designer could really share his opinions on aspects of popular culture and sub culture such as punk, skinheads, religion and art. Yet, the diversity of his work, both on and off the catwalk never compromises the essence and style of the Gaultier brand, which runs throughout the exhibition. “It is really inspirational for students to see how they can brand themselves” says Alison Moloney.

Details from two Jean Paul Gaultier campaign designs

Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest runs until 31 May at Fashion Space Gallery, London College of Fashion. Find out more

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See more shots from the show on Instagram

 

Ones to watch: Jason File

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Artist: Jason File

Hometown: Marquette, Michigan, USA

Qualifications: Chelsea College of Arts, BA Fine Art

Style:  A multimedia practice which reflect on the function of institutions and networks in society, and their relationships to individuals

Awards: Zabludowicz Collection Future Map Prize
Royal Academy of Art Thesis Prize
Ovalhouse Prize

Future Map winning work: Life Copy (2012) – a video installation accompanied by File’s commercially-published book, video footage of an internationally-televised news program appearance by the artist and television advertisements, and folding table.

Jason File

What he says: “By creating and exploiting overlaps between real life and art objects or performances, I interrogate the identity, authenticity, value and purpose of objects and events. I often use my own relationships with institutions to employ materials or contexts that are shielded from aesthetic critique—“non-art” environments—as a means of exploring institutional processes.”

What the press say: Described as one of the “reasons for theatre lovers to be crazy excited for 2014″ by Playreviews. The Guardian’s Skye Sherwin comments: “Jason’s work is bold and disarming. It raises all sorts of questions about identity and structures – including those of the artwork itself.”

What artists say: David Blandy comments: “Jason File’s work blends life and performance for subversive effect, with an intriguing examination of subjectivity and our place in the contemporary political arena.”

Read more

Two Central Saint Martins Finalists for the Catlin Art Prize 2014

Saint Anthony by Lara Morrell

Saint Anthony by Lara Morrell

Our MA Fine Art alumni Sarah Fortais and Lara Morrell are among the recent graduates selected for this year’s Catlin award and exhibition. Fortais was previously nominated for the 2013 Nova Award, presented annually by Lowe and Partners to students graduating from Central Saint Martins.

Now in its eighth year, the Catlin Art Prize is a curated exhibition featuring artists selected from The Catlin Guide 2014. The other finalists are Mr. & Mrs. Philip Cath, Virgile Ittah, Neil Raitt, Dennis J. Reinmüller and Jakob Rowlinson.

Held around 12 months on from their final-year shows, the prize gives artists the opportunity to demonstrate progress made during the crucial first year after art school.

‘Sense of conviction’

Justin Hammond, Art Catlin curator, commented: “I’m inspired by the sense of conviction shared by this year’s shortlist. While there’s talk of a diminishing pool of talent in our art schools, this particular group have new and interesting things to say. They’re free of commercial constraints and deserving of this platform.”

A panel of judges will award one artist with a prize of £5,000 at a private ceremony on 14 May 2014. This year’s panel will include Turner Prize winner Mark Wallinger. The public will also have their say, with the winner of the Visitor Vote awarded £2,000.

The Catlin Art Prize exhibition runs 2-24 May at the Londonewcastle Project Space in London.

More information:
MA Fine Art
Catlin Art Prize exhbition
Interview with Lara Morrell

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The tweet chat round-up: Why does fashion matter to the individual?

This month, Head of LCF Professor Frances Corner OBE has launched a new book, Why Fashion Matters. To celebrate, LCF has been asking fashion thinkers everywhere to talk to us about why fashion matters to them.

The first of the three tweet chats happened yesterday, and things quickly took off with questions, opinions and passionate responses flying onto the hashtag: #whyfashionmatters. So, why does fashion matter to the individual?

Conversations centred on how we express our inner self through the exterior clothes we wear, and how we can subvert people’s expectations by choosing to create our own style:

Tweeters also considered how we tell our personal story through our clothes – not just by choosing to wear them, but also in how they are crafted and where they come from:

The conversation turned to a tricky question – is fashion about showing your allegiance to a group, or is it about standing out from the crowd? This threw up all kinds of ethical dilemmas:

Tweeters also discussed their style icons, fashion and ageing, and how fashion can celebrate diversity. A massive thank you to all the passionate and insightful tweeters who joined LCF and Frances Corner yesterday.

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LCC’s MA Interaction Design Communication students join The Trumpet for social media modelling

Table Ben Stopher

Programme Director Ben Stopher and students map their social media habits

Students on London College of Communication’s MA Interaction Design Communication course recently took part in a social media modelling workshop run locally in Elephant & Castle by The Trumpet, specialists in crowd-powered change.

After taking over a unit in The Clarence Centre for Enterprise and Innovation, South Bank University’s business incubator and start-up hub, The Trumpet organised a series of community-focused events based around urban creativity. The first was Everybody Needs Somebody, run by designers and researchers Dr Kevin Walker and LCC alumnus John Fass.

Just as an architectural model shows the fine detail of a building development, a social network model shows how we are linked to the people closest to us. Participants in the workshop were invited to make tangible, physical objects out of everyday materials in order to build up a picture showing how people are connected to each other.

Each person was given a tile and was asked to stick coloured pins into it, connected to each other by coloured elastic, representing six people in their network. They then wrote short descriptions of how they knew each person. The finished artefacts externalised individual social networks, which can be difficult to see or understand as they are complex and change frequently, in a way that retained human values – and a sense of fun.

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Read about MA Interaction Design Communication

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Central Saint Martins Students Create New Fred Perry Shirt Designs

Fred Perry and Central Saint MartinsFred Perry has teamed up with the Central Saint Martins Foundation Course and the Amy Winehouse Foundation for a subculture-themed design project, run over two weeks.

150 students on the fashion and textiles pathway were invited to create their versions of both the classic Fred Perry polo shirt and the Amy Winehouse Foundation Collection Bowling Shirt. The final designs will sit alongside a capsule collection of pieces designed in-house to complement the shirts.

Originally only three winning designs were to be selected, but the students produced such strong work that four have been chosen. The successful students will now have the opportunity to work with the Fred Perry design and development teams to realise their designs. The shirts will then be manufactured and distributed globally in Fred Perry Authentic shops and selected retailers.

Fred Perry was a favourite brand of the late singer and supports the Amy Winehouse Foundation by donating a seasonal contribution to the charity, which helps young people with drug and alcohol problems.

More information:
Foundation Course
Fred Perry
Amy Winehouse Foundation

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Wear Your Clothes Inside Out and join students from UAL in support of Fashion Revolution Day

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Two students from London College of Communication and London College of Fashion are encouraging you to wear your clothes inside out for worldwide Fashion Revolution Day on 24 April and join in a day of action to raise awareness of the issue of ethical garment manufacturing.

Fashion Revolution Day, on the anniversary of the Rana Plaza disaster which killed 1,133 people when a factory complex collapsed in Bangladesh, aims to highlight the fashion industry’s most pressing issues, demand greater transparency in clothing supply chains and improve the lives of the millions of often vulnerable people who make our clothes.

“We want people to turn their clothes inside out, study the label, and ask the question: who made my clothes?” says LCC BA (Hons) Graphic and Media Design student Katie Baggs, who, together with London College of Fashion student Alice Bodgener, is coordinating a Fashion Revolution day of action on Oxford Street on 24 April.

“We want people to be aware of the working conditions of people that make their clothes, not to take things for granted. What happened at Rana Plaza should affect the entire fashion industry. We have a food labelling scheme in the UK, brands are happy to list the ingredients in their food. We know how our fish is sourced, why not our clothes?”

The day of occupation and activities, which Katie is keen to stress is “not a day of protest, but a day to ask questions”, will start at 8am at Oxford Circus and end with a “fash mob” [sic] on Carnaby Street in collaboration with ethical underwear makers Pants to Poverty.

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Perhaps one of the most surprising aspects of the Rana Plaza disaster was that, even a week later, many brands did not know whether or not they had been producing clothing within the building.

The theme for the first year of Fashion Revolution Day brings the consumer to the forefront and tell brands that they want to know who made their clothes.

People are encouraged to be curious about their clothes by taking pictures of their labels and sending them to brands on social media, asking them where they’re from. The hope is to create a global movement and inspire ongoing action, the way it has with Katie and Alice.

“My involvement with Fashion Revolution sprang out of a collaborative ‘Critical Mass’ project and exhibition for LCC Green Week,” say Katie.

“Researching Rana Plaza I was shocked by what I found and so the project was a response to that. We used giant washing label instructions to carry the message, in posters, and through an intervention in Oxford Street, speaking to people about sweatshop labour and raising awareness of Rana Plaza. With Alice, I have developed the design and the idea further for Fashion Revolution Day and we want to continue after that.”

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One way the action will continue is through the Evolving Fashion Society created by Alice and LCF students which will be encouraging interdisciplinary conversations and interactions.

“Our hope with Evolving Fashion is that it acts as a network to bring students who are already exploring sustainable practices together, to share ideas, collaborate and promote sustainability to a wider audience, both in UAL and beyond,” says Alice, who is a second-year FDA Designer Pattern Cutter student at LCF.

“The fashion industry is in dire need of a revolution, and Fashion Revolution and Evolving Fashion exist to support the next generation to make that change.”

How to get involved in Fashion Revolution Day:

Be curious and find out where your clothes are made…

Wear your clothes #InsideOut and Tweet: Today I’m wearing my (shirt/dress/T-shirt etc.) #insideout because I want to ask @ (brand/retailer) Who Made Your Clothes?

Support brands you know are creating ethical and sustainable solutions…

Wear your clothes #InsideOut and Tweet: Today I’m proud to wear my (shirt/dress/T-shirt etc.) #insideout because @ (brand/retailer) KNOW Who Made My Clothes.

Join Fashion Revolution Day on Thursday 24 April at Oxford Circus with UAL students, Pants to Poverty and the Evolving Fashion Society. See the Facebook group for where and when: facebook.com/events/220104868179904/?fref=ts


Further Reading:

fashionrevolution.org/about/why-do-we-need-a-fashion-revolution/

blogs.arts.ac.uk/csm/2014/03/31/fashion-revolution-day/


Social Media:

twitter.com/fash_rev

instagram.com/fash_rev

twitter.com/EvolvingFashUAL

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Olivia Moullaali – on her undergraduate student experience.

Wimbledon College of Arts catches up with BA Fine Art: Painting alumna, Olivia Moullaali on her experience as a student and her current practice.

Olivia Moullaali. Foliage, 2013. Oil on canvas, 110 x 97 cm.

Olivia Moullaali. Foliage, 2013. Oil on canvas, 110 x 97 cm.

WCA: What was your time studying at Wimbledon like?

OM: My time at Wimbledon was great. Looking back, in particular now it’s funny to think of how much your practice evolves from start to finish, even in the final few months of third year a lot of us noticed a dramatic change in our work. I think an advantage Wimbledon has is its smallness; there is a good sense of community throughout the school and no real divide between the year groups. Working alongside third years in my second year completely changed my worth ethic.

WCA: What did you find was the most valuable transferable skill you learnt whilst studying at the College.

OM: Being self-motivated is definitely a big one. I think personally degree show was where I learnt the most about working at a more professional level. Working towards a deadline and then selecting, installing and presenting your work. The atmosphere among everyone changes completely. Even though on a practical level I’m pretty hopeless, the  Painting Technician Tim and from woodwork Pete and Will offer outrageous amounts of guidance and patience which is invaluable.

WCA: Please tell us about your current practice

OM: I am always interested in spaces which create a sense of emptiness that is sort of eerie yet inviting. I always trawl through various online blogs saving images, never really sure what initially strikes me about the image. The image that I’ll end up using is of a scene, which I feel has enough gaps that allow me to reinvent it in a way. I also like to photocopy the image so I can use my own colour intuition, incorporating flecks of paint or dirt that have transferred onto the photocopy.

Olivia Moulaali. Bundle, 2013. Oil on canvas, 99 x 89 cm.

Olivia Moullaali. Bundle, 2013. Oil on canvas, 99 x 89 cm.

WCA: What has been your proudest moment as a practising professional so far?

OM: Involvement in group exhibitions such as the Zeitgeist Open in particular was exciting. You are selected on the piece of work you send in only, no background information matters, which I think is a really good selection process. Being one of the youngest there and meeting artists that had been practising professionals for some time, and also the artists who run Zeitgeist was really inspiring.

WCA: Do you feel your time at Wimbledon assisted you in your career?

OM: I think having 3 years, which concentrate solely on your practice, definitely helps, as once you graduate you have to manage your time much differently. By the end of third year I felt like I was at a really good stage with my ideas and the work I was creating. The pressure is raised massively on the lead up to degree show, which gives you great experience for shows that you are involved in once graduating.

WCA: Any advice for future Fine Art students?

OM: I’d say the most important thing is putting in the hours if you’re all putting in the graft together you stay motivated and focused.  And also use all the support you can get from all the tutors and technicians.

Olivia Moullaali. Room With Garden View, 2013. Oil on board, 80 x 60 cm.

Olivia Moulaali. Room With Garden View, 2013. Oil on board, 80 x 60 cm.

Olivia graduated from BA Fine Art: Painting 2013.

www.oliviamoullaali.co.uk

To find out more about our Undergraduate Courses, book onto one of our Open Days.

The post Olivia Moullaali – on her undergraduate student experience. appeared first on Wimbledon Blog.

Open Now – Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest

Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest at the Fashion Space Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest at the Fashion Space Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest at the Fashion Space Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest at the Fashion Space Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest at the Fashion Space Gallery Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest at the Fashion Space Gallery

 

Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest is now open at LCF’s Fashion Space Gallery, bringing together the fashion designer’s graphic design work for the first time.

Dating from the early 1980s to the present day, pieces include, the couturier’s unique designs for invitations to haute couture and prêt-à-porter, as well as his iconic advertising campaigns. Be My Guest reflects how Gaultier has shaped his image and translated his visionary catwalk collections into these graphic works.

The exhibition comes alongside The Barbican Art Gallery’s retrospective of the designer, The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk.

  •  Photography: Katy Davies

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