Archive for the ‘Research’ category

The House of Worth: Portrait of an Archive

The House of Worth: Portrait of an Archive

The House of Worth: Portrait of an Archive by Amy de la Haye & Valerie Mendes

Professor of Dress History and Curatorship, and Centre for Fashion Curation co-director, Amy de la Haye has co-authored a book on the House of Worth Archive with her V&A colleague, Valerie Mendes. The book was 6 years in the making and is published by the V&A, where both have worked as curators.

Charles Frederick Worth was an English designer who made his mark on the French fashion industry in the mid 19th Century and is widely considered the father of Haute Couture.

Their monograph brings together hundreds of photographs selected from the V&A’s unique archive of over 7,000 official house records. The images used capture the Worth style and offer fascinating insights into the daily routine of the House. The book tells the intriguing story of their acquisition and their historical context, and describes Worth’s international clientele of elegant women of wealth and power, from Lillie Langtry and Sarah Bernhardt to the Duchess of Marlborough.

Read More…

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LCF’s Dr. Shaun Cole awarded PhD for his thesis, ‘Sexuality, identity and the clothed male body.’

Dr Shaun Cole,

Dr Shaun Cole, Director of the Graduate School’s Culture and Curation Programme

Director of the Graduate School’s Culture & Curation programme, Shaun Cole has completed his PhD titled ‘Sexuality, Identity and the Clothed Male Body’, and is now Dr. Shaun Cole.

Shaun’s thesis draws together his key works: Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Men’s Dress in the Twentieth Century (Berg, 2000); and The Story of Men’s Underwear (Parkstone International Press, 2010) – and two chapters in edited books – ‘Butch Queens in Macho Drag: Gay Men, Dress and Subcultural Identity’ (2008) and ‘Hair and Male (Homo)Sexuality: Up-Top and Down Below’ (2008).

By examining the major themes of sexuality, identity, subcultural formation, men’s dress, masculinities, clothes and the body, his thesis presents a comprehensive investigation of these relatively neglected areas of fashion study and dress history.

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Call for contributions: Fashion Colloquia Shanghai

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Fashion Colloquia Shanghai

21st and 22nd April 2015

Call for contributions

Background to the Colloquia Series

The Fashion Colloquia originated through a core network of 4 institutions, connected by their residence and involvement in the four big ‘Fashion weeks’ across the globe. These Institutions were the London College of Fashion – University of the Arts, London, Domus Academy – Milan, Institute Francais de la Mode – Paris and Parsons the New School for Design, School of Fashion, New York. As result, members of this core network used the occurrence of the fashion weeks to organise a series of colloquia taking place from 2011-2013.

Their aim was to use the fashion weeks as a catalyst to challenge understandings regarding fashion across the globe. A rich variety of contributions (from academia, media and practice) have been enjoyed at these colloquia events and many have now been uploaded to the international repository for fashion housed at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London.

Our Call for contributions:

The success of this first series led us to develop a second series with a new group of partners. Our second series of fashion colloquium focuses on ‘emergence’ and how each location intends to contribute to the growing importance of fashion across the globe. Our first two colloquia meetings took place in Amsterdam (with AMFI) and Accra, Ghana (with University of Ghana) in 2014. Now we would now like to introduce our next colloquia event that will be held in Shanghai at Donghua University.

Shanghai is the emerging into becoming one of the most important, diverse and strategic cities in the world and likely to become a major player for the future of fashion. Yet are the challenges facing Shanghai and China similar or distinctive from other locations across the globe? To fully engage with these areas we will host the colloquium at the newly formed Shanghai International College of Fashion and Innovation of Donghua University.

This event is being held just before Greater Donghua Fashion Week (see website). We will help/advise colleagues regarding attendance.

Fashion Colloquia Shanghai – Themes:

At each colloquium there will be a mixture of specific themes that are of particular relevance to the specific locations around the globe with a series of themes, which will allow different sets of contributions to be added and explored. Some events at each of the colloquia will be streamed ‘live’ to pre-registered users of the repository. We also aim to upload selected content from the colloquium to the repository.

We would welcome a wide variety of contributions (from workshops, academic papers, presentations, exhibitions etc.) able to respond to the following three overall themes:

Fashion Education:

• The future of fashion education across the world;

• Cultural difference for fashion education;

• The future of the fashion curriculum in light of new media;

• Fashion education for the global citizen.

Fashion Information:

• Challenges to fashion communication in the digital age;

• The influence of media and celebrities for fashion;

• The importance of seasonal fashion shows coverage;

• The value of using trend forecasting for fashion studies.

Fashion Cultures:

• Networks of global fashion knowledge;

• The relevance of emerging fashion capitals in a multi-disciplinary and global context;

• The perception of high/luxury fashion in a cross-cultural and trans-historical perspective;

• The diversity of fashion aesthetics within different age groups.

We are looking to invite contributions from across the world to:

1. Provide a workshop platform for local and international delegates.

2. Respond to the theme – either via exhibitions, workshops, academic papers or surprise us!

3. Explore Shanghai and attend Shanghai International Fashion Cultural Festival.

Admission to the events will be free to invited persons – however, you must register

If you are interested please contact: fashion2015@126.com

SUBMISSION GUIDELINES FOR ABSTRACT/PROPOSALS

Abstract/Proposals/contributions deadline is 30th November 2014.

Please complete author(s) details as requested:

Use MS-Word,

Font: Arial font size 11

Paragraph alignment: Justified

The maximum is 500 words including title and keywords

Further details can be found at: http://scf.dhu.edu.cn/FC2015/

For further information please contact: fashion2015@126.com

Professor Charlotte Hodes collaborates with Professor Deryn Rees-Jones

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Professor Charlotte Hodes’ collaboration with poet Professor Deryn Rees-Jones (Department of English, University of Liverpool) at the Ledbury Poetry Festival

Helen Thomas (1877-1967), wife of the poet Edward Thomas, arrived for a holiday in Ledbury at midnight on the 28th July, 1914, the day that war with Germany had been declared. For the remainder of the summer the Thomas family, and the family of the American poet Robert Frost, lived nearby in houses across the fields from each other. Thomas and Frost walked the surrounding Malvern Hills and countryside, and it was during this time that Thomas worked out his vision for poetry.

Edward Thomas’s poem ‘And You, Helen’ (written a year to the day before he died in March 1917) was a starting point for Deryn Rees-Jones’ poetic reimagining of Helen.

Charlotte Hodes in turn responded to Deryn Rees-Jones’ twelve part poem ‘ And You, Helen’ in a sequence of papercuts and an animation made with recent CSM MA graduate, Kristina Pulejkova.

The Ledbury Poetry Festival commissioned two performances which took place 4 and 5 June 2014. The poem was read by actress, Juliet Stevenson.

The book And you, Helen which includes the poem, a long reflective essay on Helen and Edward Thomas by Deryn Rees-Jones and papercuts by Charlotte Hodes is pubished by Seren 2014

www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMt_mBZ4HC8

http://www.poetry-festival.co.uk/event/and-you-helen-remembering-helen-thomas/

LCC laboratory DigiLab powers usability behind environmental web tool FetchClimate

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Dr Amanda Windle works on the FetchClimate interface project

London College of Communication’s DigiLab – an interdisciplinary research laboratory – is behind the user experience of FetchClimate, a web tool designed to improve data access for environmental scientists. Principle Investigator Amanda Windle worked with Jason Rainbird to deliver the user experience and design.

Developed by the Computational Science Lab at Microsoft Research, in collaboration with the MSTLab at Moscow State University, FetchClimate brings together existing environmental datasets from agriculture, biodiversity, climate and oceans and enables access to the data in a streamlined way.

With FetchClimate users based at over 40 global sites, a stress-free user experience was key to the project’s success. LCC’s DigiLab designed several possible interfaces and conducted user interviews before creating a visual navigation that is both intuitive and engaging.

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The FetchClimate web tool in action

DigiLab fellow and Principle Investigator Dr Amanda Windle explains:

“One of the biggest challenges we faced while working on FetchClimate was discerning how environmental scientists understand time; specifically climate time, which has its own logics.

“Scientists refine their searches over and over which means this tool has to be robust enough to deal with refining searches and entering the same data many times without the scientist gaining repetitive injuries.

“As a result, FetchClimate has many possibilities and is flexible to including more environmental data as it evolves over time.”

As FetchClimate is a significant asset to the scientific landscape of environmental knowledge, DigiLab have ensured that using it to find and understand environmental data is as easy as possible.

Read about Research at LCC

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PhD Graduate of London College of Fashion winner of The Body Electric Showdown

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Twitter, Le Petit Echo de la Mode, Hormazd Narielwalla, photo Denis Laner No.5

Judge Raffi Kalenderian has chosen Hormazd Narielwalla, PhD Graduate of London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London as the winner of The Body Electric Showdown and Maarten Van Den Bos as the runner-up.

Praising the high standard of entries, Raffi said:

“I loved the colors and composition of Hormazd Narielwalla’s piece. The scale of the work also seemed perfect. When I read about his process of making collages and finding radical abstraction within antique tailoring patterns, sourced from a Parisian fashion magazine, I thought: “This is an artist after my own heart.”

http://www.saatchiart.com/showdown/finalist/showdown/18

www.narielwalla.com

Congratulations to Chair of Arts, Design & Science Professor Rob Kesseler

Professor Rob Kesseler has not only pulled off a centre spread in the Guardian, he has also won 1st prize at the Royal Microscopical Society’s International Scientific Imaging Competition for his image of a Medicago seed.

On Tuesday this week, 1 July 2014, The Guardian printed within their centre fold his images of a rosebay willow herb seed, a honey bee and a single grain from a passion flower, works which currently play a part of the Invisible Garden exhibition at the RHS Hampton Court Palace flower show this month.

Guardian spread

 

Yesterday, 2 July 2014, Professor Kesseler took 13 PG students from UAL’s Postgraduate Community to attend the ‘Microscience Microscopy Congress’ in Manchester.

mmc visit

 

Whilst at the event it was announced that he had won 1st prize at the Royal Microscopical Society’s International Scientific Imaging Competition for his image of a Medicago seed.

Also published today is an interview with Professor Kessler titled ‘Under the Microscope’ by Interalia Magazine here http://www.interaliamag.org/

Professor Rob Kessler’s UAL research profile.

Medicago arborea[3]

 

MMC prize awards

University Chairs Background

Thirteen artists and designers, who are pioneers in their fields, have been appointed as Cross University Chairs at UAL in a major investment in students’ academic experience.

Nigel Carrington, Vice-Chancellor of University of the Arts London, says:

“As one of the world’s largest creative communities, UAL is a leading force in how creative disciplines develop and evolve, which is why we have invested in these new roles and appointed pioneers in their fields as Chairs. These new professors will spearhead our continuing drive to create communities of practice in which students and staff can take time out to think differently and develop new approaches to the evolution of our disciplines.”

University Chairs appointed are:

Name Chair Title  College base
Professor David Toop University Chair of Audio Culture & Improvisation

LCC

Professor Robert Kesseler University Chair of Arts, Design & Science

CSM

Professor Lucy Orta University Chair of Art in the Environment

LCF

Professor Fred Deakin University Chair of Interactive Digital Arts

LCC

Professor Stephen Farthing University Chair of Drawing

CCW

Professor Sonia Boyce University Chair of Black Art & Design

CCW

Professor Paul Goodwin University Chair of Black Art & Design

CCW

Professor Scott King University Chair of Visual Communication

LCC

Professor Nick Bell University Chair of Communication Design

LCC

Professor Dominic Janes University Chair of Cultural & Visual Studies

LCF

Professor Ben Kelly University Chair of Interior & Spatial Design

CCW

Professor Ezio Manzini University Chair of Design for Social Innovation

CSM

Professor Isaac Julien University Chair of Global Art

CSM

Congratulations, 22 UAL Doctorates awarded in 2013/14!

Professor Helen Thomas, Director of Doctoral Programmes at UAL would like to congratulate the awarded PhD Students of 2013/14, they are:

2013

Kate Goldsworthy, CCW, Laser-Finishing: A New Process for Designing Recyclability in Synthetic Textiles: Professor Stephen Scrivener, Professor Becky Early, Professor Kay Politowicz

Catherine Maffioletti, CCW, Can the object ever truly reflect the body without merely being a representation, or producing a lack of body/self? Does the object only exist in the absence of the body/self? Or, can it speak the body/self via a different mirror? Dr Maria Walsh, Dr Mo Throp, Professor Stephen Scrivener

Rosalind Fowler, LCC, Embodied Film and Experimental Ethnography: Place, Belonging and Performative Folk Traditions in England, Professor William Raban, Professor Elizabeth Edwards

Robert Luzar, CSM, Drawing Upon Multiplicity: Mark, Body and a Trace of Thought, Professor Anne Tallentire, Chris Kul-Want

Nicola Stylianou, CCW, Producing and Collecting for Empire: African Textiles in the V&A 1852-2000, Professor Toshio Watanabe, Professor Carol Tulloch, Professor Chris Breward

Martha Romero, CCW, Limp, laced-case binding in parchment on sixteenth-century Mexican printed books, Professor Nicholas Pickwoad, Professor Oriana Baddeley

Piotr Splawski, CCW, Japonisme in Polish Pictorial Arts (1885-1939) Professor Toshio Watanabe, Dr Yuko Kikuchi, Dr Rebecca Salter

Hilary Kenna, LCC, A Practice-led Study of Design Principles for Screen Typography – with reference to the teachings of Emil Ruder, Professor Teal Triggs, Professor Angus Carlyle, Stuart Evans

Osman Ahmed, CCW, Documenting the Kurdish Genocide – Anfal (1988) – Through Drawing, Professor Malcolm Quinn, Christine Allison, Gerald Davies

2014

Michaela Ross, CCW, The artist-as-educator: dialogue, community and the institutional site, Professor Stephen Scrivener, Professor Linda Drew

Theokritos Papadopoulos, CSM, The Aesthetic of Waste, Joanna Greenhill, Professor Mark Nash

Shaun Cole, UAl, Sexuality, Identity and the Clothed Male Body Professor Helen Thomas Professor Roger Sabin

Felice McDowell, LCF, Photographed at…Locating Fashion Imagery in the Cultural Landscape of Post-War Britian 1945-1962, Dr Agnes Rocamora, Alistair O’Neill

Peter Sinclair, LCC, Using Real Time Data Flux in Art. The mediation of a situation as it unfolds: RoadMusic, an experimental case study, Professor Angus Carlyle, Dr Stuart Jones

Alexander Aidan, LCF, The Mirror Men: An integrated approach to profiling male fashion innovators in London by using self-concept and gender theories, Francess Ross, Professor Ian King

Alev Adil Reid, CSM, Drifting in the Dead Zone in Cyprus: the mediation of memory through expanded life writing, James Swinson, Professor Deborah Cherry

Ope Lori, CCW, The Oppositional Gaze: Contemporary Image-Making Practice and the Implications of Skin Colour Ideals, Professor Carol Tulloch, Dr Wiebke Leister, Professor Oriana Baddeley

Pratap Rughani, UAL, Towards Intercultural Documentary, Professor Deborah Cherry, James Swinson

Carali McCall, CSM, A Line is a Brea(d)thless Length: introducing the physical act of running as a form of drawing, Professor Anne Tallentire Dr Jordan Baseman, Joanna Greenhill

Maria Christoforatou, CCW, Narratives of Home and Displacement in Contemporary Art Practice, Dr David Dibosa, Professor Carol Tulloch, Professor Paul Coldwell

Maria Sacchetti, LCF, Minimal aesthetic: The relationships between fashion and architecture in New York and Paris, from 1964 to the present day, Alistair O’Neill, Professor Judith Clark, Professor Catherine McDermott

Corinne Silva, LCC, Plastic Towns vs Ecotowns: How can landscape photographs be constructed to explore geographies of difference and the politics of architecture on the political equator? Professor Val Williams, Professor Elizabeth Edwards, Anne Williams

LCC Success in the Magenta Foundation’s tenth anniversary ‘Flash Forward’

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Your Mind & Body Is All That You’ve Got II, Jocelyn Allen.

In the Magenta Foundation’s tenth anniversary ‘Flash Forward’ thirty of the hundred selected emerging UK photographers are LCC Alumni or current students.

Established in 2004, The Magenta Foundation is a non-profit charitable arts publishing house based in Canada. Magenta was created to organize promotional opportunities for artists, in an international context, through circulated exhibitions and publications. Magenta works with respected individuals and international organizations to help increase recognition for artists while uniting the global photography community.

Jocelyn Allen, a current LCC MA Photography student was a Flash Forward winner in 2012 for a project about her family called ‘One Is Not Like The Other’. Jocelyn’s work is predominately self-portraiture and she is currently working on two projects based on ideas of hiding and revealing.

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Your Mind & Body Is All That You’ve Got II, Jocelyn Allen.

Corinne Silva, who recently completed her AHRC funded PhD at LCC in December, is now a Post-Doctoral Research Fellow with the Photography and the Archive Research Centre (PARC), also based at LCC.

Corinne was a Flash Forward winner in 2010 and 2011. Her latest ambitious photography project is based in the Mediterranean and is called ‘Rocks and Fortresses’. She has recently shown her work in London and the Middle-East.

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New suburb of Tangier placed in former mining region La Unión, Murcia, from Imported Landscapes site specific installation and photographs, Corinne Silva, 2010

All LCC Alumni and Students Featured:

Peter Ainsworth // Olivia Arthur // Polly Braden // Philipp Ebeling // Melinda Gibson // Lydia Goldblatt // Léonie Hampton // Edgar Martins // Kurt Tong // Jon Tonks // Jocelyn Allen // Maxwell Anderson // Thomas Ball // Poulomi Basu // Briony Campbell // Altheia Casey // Richard Chivers // Teresa Cos // Jackie Dewe Mathews // Sophie Gerrard // Matthew Robert Hughes // Moira Lovell // Vilma Pimenoff // Valentina Quintano // Zhao Renhui // Corinne Silva // Toby Smith // Emma Jane Spain // Luca Spano // Anastasia Taylor-Lind

Read more about MA Photography

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An interview with MFA Fine Art student Miroslav Pomichal

We caught up with MFA Fine Art student & Bloomberg New Contemporaries  2014  Artist, Miroslav Pomichal as he prepares for the Wimbledon College of ArtsMFA Fine Art, Postgraduate Summer Show 2014.

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Wimbledon College of Arts: Tell us about your current practice

Miroslav Pomichal: At the moment my work centres around large figurative paintings, and carved objects. I also make a lot of drawings, watercolours, digital paintings and collages.

I am really interested in the idea of authenticity in art. In one way it takes the form of my interest in traditional materials, the handmade, folk art; but bound up with this is the exploration of the authenticity of the modern art historical canon, by focusing on its source of early Modernism. The whitewashed canon of today often omits to note that the idea of ‘progress’ which it now embodies was actually wrapped up in all sorts of traditional and even reactionary ideas and morality; Picasso’s dreams of patriarchal society, Kandinsky’s theories on peasant art production and mysticism; not to mention van Gogh’s messianic Christianity, Gauguin’s tropical fantasies or the German Expressionists’ attempts at recreating what they termed ‘tribal’ aesthetics.

WCA: How are you preparing for the MFA Fine Art Summer Show?

MP: I have been working towards the show since Christmas, as I work quite slowly. So now I am busy helping out with the organising of the show, publication materials, and so on. I even get to design a stamp!

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WCA: Please tell us about your experience with Bloomberg New Contemporaries.

MP: I have had an extremely positive experience. The BNC does not require CVs, or tortuous artist statements. More importantly, they bear the entire costs of the art transport for shortlisted works; and those works not chosen are safely delivered to you for free. As far as I know it is the only institution (can I call it that?) with such a long and illustrious history which has not wavered or morphed into something different over the years. Last year’s opening at the ICA, with its hundreds of people queuing outside waiting to go in, made an impression on me. That kind of attendance and esteem only comes with a long term consistency and integrity.

WCA: What’s next for you following graduation?

MP: I am taking a working break; I have always had an interest in Byzantine art and philosophy and I need to consider whether to begin on a body of work which would incorporate certain elements of this interest.

WCA: What has your time studying at Wimbledon been like?

MP: I could not have chosen a better college to study in, or had a better time. It is a top London art college with a long history, but it has an atmosphere like no other; nestling in the leafy suburbs, with many friends you can make across courses and disciplines, it is very encouraging but still cutting edge. The library is great; the technicians excellent, and the canteen food to die for.

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WCA: What did you find was the most valuable transferable skill you learnt whilst studying at the College?

MP: I learnt that the most important thing in human interaction, whether personal or professional, is to be physically present. Only being in a studio, or office, or workshop, can you work out imaginative solutions to problems which at first seem insurmountable.

WCA: Any advice for future MFA Fine Art students?

MP: From what I suggested previously – be in college as much as you can, because only in that way can you meet surprising people, let your eye drop on a previously unsuspected book in the library, or discover an intriguing process in a workshop. A lot can happen to your practice and thinking from chance encounters in the right place. And that is why people come to college, surely!

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Wimbledon College of Arts Postgraduate MFA Fine Art Show 2014
Catch the ‘up and coming’ artists of tomorrow at the Wimbledon College of Arts  MFA Fine Art Summer Show featuring work by graduating students.
Private View: Thursday 3rd July 6pm – 9pm
Then open to general public: Friday 4th July- 11am – 8pm
Saturday 5th July - 11am – 5pm
Sunday 6th July  - closed
Monday 7th July - 10am – 8pm
Tuesday 8th July - 10am – 8pm
Wednesday 9th July - 10am – 8pm
Thursday 10th July - 10am -5pm

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